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EVENT FORTY TWO

NEW YORK FASHION AWARDS | SEPT 2024

THE CLASSIC ROCK INFLUENCED NY MENSWEAR BRAND IS POISED FOR A COMEBACK

MERLE'S CLOSET | FASHION COMMENTARY  | LOS ANGELES | MODERATES

Step into Merle’s Closet for an insider’s view of the inner world of L.A. style.

OUR SHORT FILM

| THE RETURN OF AN ICON |
MERLE'S CLOSET

AFTER A 5 YEAR ABSCENCE FROM NYFW VARVATOS IS BACK

Where has the great menswear designer John Varvatos been the last couple years? The man famed for putting tailoring and haberdashery and rock n’ roll in the same sentence? To give you the context of the brand’s first showing at New York Fashion Week in tk years, here’s the necessary backstory: John Varvatos worked for Ralph Lauren in the 80’s, Calvin Klein in the 90’s. He showed his first eponymous collection in 2000, opened a boutique in Soho, then opened another one in the original CBGB space on the Bowery. His looks included killer suits, eyewear, shoes, travel bags, the whole nine yards. Lots of rock stars donned the clothes – Paul Weller even starred in a Varvatos ad campaign and played a live set at the L.A. store at Robertson and Melrose. Alice Cooper, Chris Cornell, Dave Matthews, The Roots, Green Day – even Iggy Pop starred in a JV ad campaign.  Varvatos even did his own Sirius XM radio show, interviewing artists.  (Continued)

 He even had his own record label for a while, John Varvatos Records. Unfortunately, like most things in rock ‘n roll – and in fashion – it didn’t last. The John Varvatos brand filed for Chapter 11 in 2020. Cut to: September 6, the first day of New York Fashion Week – also known as “Men’s Day” – the brand is back after a four year absence. Now its private equity owners Lion/Cayman (which also owns All Saints, another rock n’ roll inspired brand), hired a new Creative Director, Karl Aberg, brought 2025 style freshness to the menswear. “Kiln & Craft” was the name of a presentation held at a townhouse on the Upper East Side. In the courtyard, models were already decked out in tailored clothes in non-traditional fabrics: crochet polo shirts (great tucked under a suit or sports jacket), bottle green leather jackets, blue suede jackets, and lots of light neutrals, blacks and pale greys. While the cuts were skinny, even slinky, on long-haired aviator-clad models on which they belong, the linen, tropical wool and seersucker fabrics would work on a dj, a Hollywood agent, an actor, a groovy dad (who watches his

 waistline), sports stars – even entertainment lawyers. In other words, perfect dressed-up-without-being-too-dressed-up looks that pair well with each other, and will also offer any guy’s closet a lot of new options. Catherine Jobling, the brand’s CEO, floated through the curious crowd, pointing out details on large travel bags, killer boots and fabric details. Kudos to Aberg for bringing back John Varvatos with a truly modern style, likely to be embraced by late night tv hosts and musicians alike. It’s the right moment for it: you can see a wide range of guys of all ages now developing a bigger interest in style: leather jackets, great bootsI can tell you I was so dazzled – in a cool quiet way – I began to imagine my long and lean boyfriend in various pieces that reflect his love of all kinds of music, and all eras of clothing, starting in the 70’s. These looks work for those of us know each decade’s style well – and those just old enough to say, simply: “Wow. These clothes are cool.”

THE CROWD

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EVENT FORTY TWO