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NOCTURNES Crustacean

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Merle Ginsberg

STYLE EDITOR - LOS ANGELES MAGAZINE

CRUSTACEAN

HIGH DINING – AND MEDIA HOLIDAY DINNER/November 15th 2023

The expression “high dining” is thrown around a lot – particularly in Bev Hills. There’s fine dining – basically a euphemism for expensive – then there’s wildly creative cuisine, with a unique environment that compliments the cuisine’s style. But Crustacean in Beverly HIlls – which opened in San Francisco in 1971 – then in Beverly Hills in 1995, as a family business – is simply beyond.
 
Table setting in the private room upstairs.

Can’t think of a more appropriate word. Longtime owner and chef, “Mama” Helene An, is one of the pioneers of Asian fusion food: Vietnamese meets European meets American. She created Crustacean’s infamous garlic noodles, made with pasta instead of rice noodles, for an American palate. It’s the restaurant’s most famous dish – but the long, mostly fish, menu, is filled with creativity: caramelized prawn ravioli, spicy tuna ‘cigars’ with caviar, langoustine spring rolls, Vietnamese caesar salad, lemon chicken, filet mignon Shaken Beef, garlic crab, and basil or lychee sorbet.

 

Media guest from around the city gathered…

On November 15, CEO Elizabeth An and her husband, entrepreneur Gordon Clune, invited special media guests/friends as a big thank you for supporting the place over years. What a holiday gift it was: cocktails and mocktails shook up patrons at the upstairs private bar), after which luxurious wines flowed to accompany countless courses.

 

The hits just kept on comin’. It was the rare opportunity to both stuff one’s self magnificently and catch up with media friends. Also to be greeted by Mama An, who’s been cooking and leading the kitchen creatively all these years – still looking lovely. Elizabeth An, whose wardrobe is as chic as the menu, worked out every detail: the private room is filled with Vietnamese art, amazing lighting, furnishings) and is always the most gracious hostess. The plates, service, everything. And she’s a killer conversationalist  as well!
 
 
      ABOUT MERLE GINSBERG

Merle Ginsberg is a fashion writer and television personality who was one of the judges on “RuPaul’s Drag Race” in the first two seasons of the show. She is also an award winning journalist and writer, and a NY Times bestselling author. She started her long media career in NY at the Village Voice, MTV and Rolling Stone. Then, moving to L.A., she wrote for People, Us, L.A. Times and W Magazine and Women’s Wear Daily, where she presided over the West Coast bureau for 12 years, also contributing to L.A. Magazine, Jane and Details. She also served as Senior Style Editor of The Hollywood Reporter.

 

 

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